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BrewBuilt® IceMaster Max 4 | Glycol Chiller | 4 Built In Temp Controllers & Pumps | 2600btu | 110V | 8 Gal. Tank Capacity
Description
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The ultimate control & precision of your fermentation process. Equipped with four built-in temperature controllers and pumps, this advanced chiller enables you to independently regulate the temperature of multiple separate fermentation vessels simultaneously, ensuring optimal conditions for different batches or styles of beer, making it a game-changer for homebrewers.
4 Built-in pumps and digital controllers
Control multiple fermentation temperatures independently
Fill with 20% glycol solution for optimal chilling performance
Cold crash with good insulation
Perfect complement to BrewBuilt X-Series Conicals
The IceMaster Max 4 is designed to cool fermentations in small vessels. It features 4 built-in submersible pumps with independent digital temperature controllers and can be used with any vessel that has a glycol jacket or submersed cooling coil/rod. Each controller includes a temperature probe that should be inserted into a thermowell in your vessel or can be taped to the outside of the vessel if you don't have a thermowell. The digital controller then measures the temperature of your tank and turns the submersible pump on or off to cool to your desired set temperature. Up to four tanks can be controlled separately with one IceMaster Max 4.
Compatibility
The IceMaster can be used with any fermenter that has a built-in cooling jacket, added CoolStix, or a submersed cooling coil. It works well as the cooling source for the following systems and fermenters.
BrewBuilt Jacketed Uni Conical - we recommend one Insulated Tubing Kit for each tank. These kits feature "dry break" quick disconnects that prevent glycol loss and the insulated tubing will increase chilling efficiency and eliminate line sweating from condensation.
CoolStix - CoolStix can be added to a wide range of carboys, fermenters, and tanks and the IceMaster works really well in combination. Each CoolStix is available with or without a pump kit; for use with the IceMaster Max 4 you will only need the CoolStix and some tubing to connect it to the chiller.
Ss Brewtech Fermenters and Brites - Ss BME Chronicals, BME Brites, and Unitanks come with cooling coils and neoprene as standard. The optional chilling FTSs will not be needed for use with the Max 4. The cooling coil for standard Ss Chronicals and Brew Buckets are not sold a la carte and must be purchased with a submersible pump, which is not needed for the Max 4. For standard Chronicals and Brew Buckets you might consider the IceMaster 100 for cost savings.
Spike Conical with Optional Cooling Coil - the cooling coil for Spike CF series conicals is available for purchase independently from the TC-100 cooling system. For use with the Max 4 you will only need the coil and some tubing to connect it to the chiller.
SpeidelTanks with Optional Cooling Jackets - You will need two lengths of tubing to connect the chiller to each tank.
Grainfather Fermenters - Grainfather fermenters have standard cooling jackets. You will need two lengths of tubing for each fermenter.
Blichmann Fermenators with Optional Cooling Coil - You will need two lengths of tubing for each Fermenator.
Capacity
It is always difficult to determine exactly how many tanks can be chilled at one time as it depends on what is happening in each tank, if the tank is insulated, and what the ambient temperature is. Cold crashing always requires the most energy and requires tank insulation. We have experimented with capacities and can provide this general guide based on a 75°F ambient and neoprene insulation. Neoprene provides a modest amount of insulation so you would obtain better results using Armaflex or a higher R rated insulation.
Capacity calculated at cold crashing to a target temperature of 38°F while the ambient temperature is 75°F with neoprene insulation (double tank capacity for ale fermentation temperature control):
Set Up
In order to hook up the IceMaster to your fermenter or tank's cooling system, you will need 2 lengths of tubing per vessel. All tubing connections should be secured with hose clamps.
Length 1: Barb of 1st bulkhead (IN) to cooling system outlet
Length 2: Barb of 2nd bulkhead (OUT) to cooling system inlet
Specifications:
4 built-in submersible pumps with independent digital controllers
Pump controllers read in °F/°C
Temperature controller reads in °C
Labeled IN and OUT stainless bulkheads with 3/8" OD barbs
Tank Capacity: 30L/8 Gal. Water Capacity
Compressor: 3/8 HP
Cooling Capacity: 780 Watt/2600btu/0.26 ton
Refrigerant: R134a
Voltage: 110V (3.6 amps)
Dimensions: 16.1" x 16.1" x 26"
Wheels included
CE Certified
Max Head: 21.3 ft (6.5 m)
Warning: Do not set the reservoir temperature controller lower than 28°F (-2ºC). Running the unit below this temperature may negatively affect the unit's efficiency and has the potential to freeze beer which may impact the finished beer's flavor.
Item #
GLY354
Weight
77
LBS
Prebook Item: Please note this item is not currently in stock, but is available for Pre-Order. We do require payment in full in order to reserve stock.
After a lot of research, this unit provided the most features, the fact that all of the pumps and the controler are included make a big difference when comparing to other brands.
After a lot of research, this unit provided the most features, the fact that all of the pumps and the controler are included make a big difference when comparing to other brands.
BEST ANSWER:If its a closed loop, from the chiller to the jacket and back again, there shouldn't be much of any pressure. Perhaps a bit if there is a height difference, but should be negligable.
BEST ANSWER:If its a closed loop, from the chiller to the jacket and back again, there shouldn't be much of any pressure. Perhaps a bit if there is a height difference, but should be negligable.
Which model pump does this unit come standard with? There are 2 options for replacement pumps. A 1300 gph and a 800 gph. The pumps in the unit do not look like either one. But which GPH are they? I am using this Icemaster 4 on four 1 BBL Uni X2 conicals and need to ensure they are the 1300 GPH without disassembling this brand new glycol chiller. Thanks in advance!
BEST ANSWER:It comes with built in temperature sensors for each of the built in pumps. No additional sensors should be needed to use this unit for cooling. It will not, however, control a heating setup as far as I can tell and I had to get a separate ink bird sensor to control my heating pad for keeping up my ale's temperature at night in the garage this winter.
BEST ANSWER:It comes with built in temperature sensors for each of the built in pumps. No additional sensors should be needed to use this unit for cooling. It will not, however, control a heating setup as far as I can tell and I had to get a separate ink bird sensor to control my heating pad for keeping up my ale's temperature at night in the garage this winter.
I’m not sure what you mean. It includes four sensor probes that can be attached to the outside of a vessel or inserted into a drywell. My worked great for a few months, now it doesn’t chill at all.
BEST ANSWER:Hi. You can individually turn on/off each temperature controller. This will keep the unused controller from turning on the pump, which will shoot out the coolant if a hose is not connected. If you unplug the temp probe it makes a loud beeping noise that can't be turned off until you plug the probe back in. The solution is to leave the probe plugged in and turn off the controller for the unused probe. I loop back the hose from the Outlet to the Inlet to make a loop for an unused controller. This way if the controller gets turned on and tries to pump coolant, it just gets put back into the reservoir. Not the most elegant solution, especially with unused probes hanging there, but otherwise, the chiller works great.
BEST ANSWER:Hi. You can individually turn on/off each temperature controller. This will keep the unused controller from turning on the pump, which will shoot out the coolant if a hose is not connected. If you unplug the temp probe it makes a loud beeping noise that can't be turned off until you plug the probe back in. The solution is to leave the probe plugged in and turn off the controller for the unused probe. I loop back the hose from the Outlet to the Inlet to make a loop for an unused controller. This way if the controller gets turned on and tries to pump coolant, it just gets put back into the reservoir. Not the most elegant solution, especially with unused probes hanging there, but otherwise, the chiller works great.
All four temperature probes must be plugged in or you will get an error code and annoying beeping. You don’t have to use them all, but they must be plugged in. I just neatly roll up the cords of the unused probes and let them dangle from the port. You can disable the pumps you don’t want to use by pushing and holding the C/F button for the unused pump(s) until the led display goes off. Turn it back on the same way. If you choose to leave the displays for the unused pumps on, be sure to set the cut in temperature at least ten degrees higher than the highest ambient room temperature so the pumps don’t inadvertently come on. Cheers!
Keep them plugged in and just hold the small button on the temp controller (lower one) to turn them all off. Note that if you lose power and the system resets all glycol controllers will turn back on. I highly recommend setting the temp to controllers that you do not use to a high temp (live over 150 deg F) and I also used a hose clamp to keep the rubber caps on the discharge end to avoid pumping all the glycol out on the floor in that event. It did happen to me.
If you unplug a temp probe, you just get an annoying beeping that won't go away until you plug it back in even if you have shut off that controller. You only need to turn on each of the controllers you have a fermenter connected to. The probes for the unused ones are just connected and can be stowed.
If you take them out you get an alarm so they need to remain in. If I'm not using a particular pump I set the temperature at 99 degrees to keep the pumps from turning on and pumping your glycol all over the floor. I agree it would be nice not to do this but it hasn't been a big deal for me.
For each output not being used, hook up a short piece of tubing from the 'out' to the 'in' so that the glycol just circulates back into the chiller. Then you can set the temps for those probes to a temperature higher than ambient temperature so that they never come on.
I don’t have the chiller in front of me but if you hold down one of the buttons (probably Set) for a few seconds, the temp setting turns off. Before I stumbled on that, I just set the temp absurdly high so that it would never trigger.
You can turn off the display but I'm not sure that turns off the pump. I set the pump temperature to something like 99 degrees so they won't accidentally turn on and pump your glycol mix all over the floor.
right now I just have one fermenter on it. Just keep the sensors plugged in, and set it so only one pump is working. Right now I'm using it on SS brew equipment , and it works great.
I bought the max 4 recently, and next to the control readouts, it says heat and cool, but in the pictures here on the website it does not show any heating option. The provided instructions do not mention it either. Did I receive some sort of new model? Or are nr readouts from a different model?
BEST ANSWER:I have the same question. Today I spoke with a friend who had received his Icemaster Max 2 last week. He assured me that the unit can also heat up. But why is that not specified anywhere? I also only know, as has already been written, that you have the possibility to connect a heating device which is then also controlled by the internal controller (version 2.1). Does my buddy now have a kind of version 2.2? To the original questioner: Have you tried heating with straight water?
BEST ANSWER:I have the same question. Today I spoke with a friend who had received his Icemaster Max 2 last week. He assured me that the unit can also heat up. But why is that not specified anywhere? I also only know, as has already been written, that you have the possibility to connect a heating device which is then also controlled by the internal controller (version 2.1). Does my buddy now have a kind of version 2.2? To the original questioner: Have you tried heating with straight water?
no - btw this is my second one - it was not intended to heat - it could, but it is not wired to do so. Be aware though of the power-off issue - on those cheap temp controllers, when power goes off and comes back, they turn the pump on by default even if you turn them off! I'm just replacing them with 10$ ITC1000... You could wire heating, though it will need to drive a heating pad or similar.
Mine, purchased a few years ago, also says heat and cool. While the controller they used in the chiller could control a heater, there is not a heater mechanism in the glycol tank. For my batches where I needed heat, I used separate heat wrap and inkbird controller.
There is no heating capability. The temperature control units are 3rd party and if they were used separately you could hook up a heating element to the connections for heating. However, as the unit designed it does not have any way of heating.
The info states this system can cold crash 2 1BBL fermenters, simultaneously. Would it have any problem keeping 4 1BBL fermenters at 68 defrees F in a 75-80 degree room? That is, assuming the fermenters are well-insulated.
BEST ANSWER:I am not sure. But over the thumb calculated has a bbl Rd 30 gal. 4 fermenter are 120 equal 120*8.3 lbs. Delta temp is 12 F .means 12*8.3*120=11952 BTU. The cooler has 3000 BTU per hour. In 4hrs has this system cooled down the temp.running the compressor 4 hrs full time. Usually you should not let the compressor run more than 20 min per hour. It can work .but this is already at the limits. Now you need to keep it cool. How is the insulation. How many w/mk do you lost.your machine would bring 700 BTU per hr per tank. 1bbl needs about 250 BTU per hr to maintain the fermentation temp.add 30 percent safety. Let say one line needs 300btu and your compressor would give 700btu . Then the compressor needs to run 3/7 of each hour. My cooler runs 1/12 per hour. You can , would not go or recommend this..is the compressor made for this? If you want to dig deeper spike brewing has a nice article about the BTU calculation for many fermenter and temp conditions
BEST ANSWER:I am not sure. But over the thumb calculated has a bbl Rd 30 gal. 4 fermenter are 120 equal 120*8.3 lbs. Delta temp is 12 F .means 12*8.3*120=11952 BTU. The cooler has 3000 BTU per hour. In 4hrs has this system cooled down the temp.running the compressor 4 hrs full time. Usually you should not let the compressor run more than 20 min per hour. It can work .but this is already at the limits. Now you need to keep it cool. How is the insulation. How many w/mk do you lost.your machine would bring 700 BTU per hr per tank. 1bbl needs about 250 BTU per hr to maintain the fermentation temp.add 30 percent safety. Let say one line needs 300btu and your compressor would give 700btu . Then the compressor needs to run 3/7 of each hour. My cooler runs 1/12 per hour. You can , would not go or recommend this..is the compressor made for this? If you want to dig deeper spike brewing has a nice article about the BTU calculation for many fermenter and temp conditions
I’m not sure what you are fermenting or what your natural fermentation heat load is, but here’s what I can tell you. I make Cabernet Sauvignon in my garage. I have 4 fermenters, each with 20-25 gallons of must. They are food grade plastic and are not insulated. My garage temperature during fermentation is typically between 75 and 90 degrees. Without a chiller, my fermentation temperature usually reaches between 85 and 92 degrees. My Max4 easily (quickly) kept the fermentation temperature at 78. It did not have to run anywhere close to constantly to do this, so I believe there is much more capacity available. I have a caution for red wine makers, though. Make sure the temperature probe is long enough to reach under the cap (if it is top mounted), to ensure an accurate reading.
I cold crash 2 separately. Haven’t tried them both together. A friend who has sane setup said doesn’t work. I don’t know why you can’t hold 4 at 68. The system works well and I can’t imagine much difficulty cooling only 10 degrees.
I have this connected to 2 1bbl unitanks, and after fermenting, I leave both of them set at serving temp, about 38 degrees, in a 70 degree room, and it does a great job, I am able to serve cold beer out of both.
BEST ANSWER:Howdy. I used 3/8 silicone from more beer. Part# H983B. Fits perfect. I did use small quality zip ties for clamps on the barbs and on the chiller coils.
BEST ANSWER:Howdy. I used 3/8 silicone from more beer. Part# H983B. Fits perfect. I did use small quality zip ties for clamps on the barbs and on the chiller coils.
Has anyone had an issue with the chiller going too cold? Mine is filled 100% water and set to 10C but it will keep chilling down to 0.5C. I have to turn it off every 6-12 hours and let it come back to room temperature to avoid it freezing over.
BEST ANSWER:check your PID controller. You have one for each line and fermenter and a main PID at the bottom for the coolant. In the menu you will find F1.F2.F3 .F4 and so on. Each sub menu has a special function. Esp. F1 sets the temp. G2 the hysteresis. Means the gap between the reached temp and when again it shuts down or start again . No the important part: the coolant controller works totally independent. Download the manual, if you are worried watch the video from kegland Australia how to program it and set the F1 to 10C and return to the main menu with pressing F and powerON buttons .
BEST ANSWER:check your PID controller. You have one for each line and fermenter and a main PID at the bottom for the coolant. In the menu you will find F1.F2.F3 .F4 and so on. Each sub menu has a special function. Esp. F1 sets the temp. G2 the hysteresis. Means the gap between the reached temp and when again it shuts down or start again . No the important part: the coolant controller works totally independent. Download the manual, if you are worried watch the video from kegland Australia how to program it and set the F1 to 10C and return to the main menu with pressing F and powerON buttons .
The reservoir temperature is adjustable, but sometimes when I set it, it does not register and I have to do it again. The chiller’s electronic controllers are pretty finicky in terms of meticulously following the instructions. The chiller does not seem to remember my set temperature when I turn off the unit, so make sure your set temperature is still registered. If this does not work, make sure the thermostat sensor in the reservoir is covered by the coolant, or perhaps there is a problem with your reservoir electronic controller.
Mine only did that when I didnt set the bottom cooling pid correctly. It kept the reservoir at .5 C. Get some glycol and corrosion inhibitor if you want the chilled to last.
BEST ANSWER:Temp sensor goes in the thermowell. Different carboys have different thermowell. For ex, the SS Brew Bucket has a thermowell and it comes with a digital temperature display that fits over the thermowell. The sensor(probe) is deeper in the thermowell and the digital temperature display then encloses the thermowell. If you have a 5 gal plastic bucket or glass carboy then you can get lids for those that have a 15 inch thermowell that can be adapted to the lid and the sensor then is sunk down into the wort through the 15 inch thermowell from the top. This should get you started in the right direction. Good luck
BEST ANSWER:Temp sensor goes in the thermowell. Different carboys have different thermowell. For ex, the SS Brew Bucket has a thermowell and it comes with a digital temperature display that fits over the thermowell. The sensor(probe) is deeper in the thermowell and the digital temperature display then encloses the thermowell. If you have a 5 gal plastic bucket or glass carboy then you can get lids for those that have a 15 inch thermowell that can be adapted to the lid and the sensor then is sunk down into the wort through the 15 inch thermowell from the top. This should get you started in the right direction. Good luck
I'm not familiar with the SS tanks, but you would normally use the thermowell designated for the thermometer. Just remove the thermometer and insert the probe from the chiller. You may need to use tape to hold it in place if the thermowell is short. Being that it is horizontal, the probe may not want to stay in.
You will need a thermal well. It is a hollow rod that is submerged in the beer and the sensor slides into it. they are available at more beer. You can also tape the sensor to the out side of the fermentor if you are insulating it, which I suggest doing.
The SS !BBL Brite tank comes with a thermowell assembly included. This is where you would put the temperature sensor for the tank. The cooling coil is an accessory you would also need to purchase as well as two lengths of 3/8" tubing to connect the two.
BEST ANSWER:The reservoir has an 8 gallon capacity. The included instructions state "Fill the reservoir with a 20% propylene glycol solution - 4 parts RO/distilled/deionized water to 1 part 99.9% propylene glycol.
BEST ANSWER:The reservoir has an 8 gallon capacity. The included instructions state "Fill the reservoir with a 20% propylene glycol solution - 4 parts RO/distilled/deionized water to 1 part 99.9% propylene glycol.
BEST ANSWER:Mine was wired with a standard US 110VAC plug. You would have to check with an electrician on your end to see if this unit would work for you. Should be a simple adapter. It is a great little unit! I would recommend isolating the unit in a separate air space to prevent the heat from the unit adding unnecessary heat to the room if it is in the same space with the fermenters. If you have plenty of air circulation in the room, it will not be an issue. Our brew room had zero air circulation. The heat had no where to go. Good luck!
BEST ANSWER:Mine was wired with a standard US 110VAC plug. You would have to check with an electrician on your end to see if this unit would work for you. Should be a simple adapter. It is a great little unit! I would recommend isolating the unit in a separate air space to prevent the heat from the unit adding unnecessary heat to the room if it is in the same space with the fermenters. If you have plenty of air circulation in the room, it will not be an issue. Our brew room had zero air circulation. The heat had no where to go. Good luck!
BEST ANSWER:I don't have a decimal meter but the unit sits next to my desk and the pumps are extremely quiet to the point I don't even know they're on. The refrigeration compressor is no louder than a mini refrigerator
BEST ANSWER:I don't have a decimal meter but the unit sits next to my desk and the pumps are extremely quiet to the point I don't even know they're on. The refrigeration compressor is no louder than a mini refrigerator
Write your review here. It must be at least 20 charaPUT TEFLON TAPE ON THE DRAIN PLUG!
Okay now with that out of the way... this is a nice and versatile unit. It performs well.
But get ready to learn Celsius if you're in the US, there's no way to set to F. And I'm not crazy about the built in controllers (holding two buttons simultaneous and then holding two buttons again to confirm, then two buttons again to save? Jesus christ), but the unit design is good in terms of what counts - the cooling, the capacity, and the pretty quiet noise. It's about as loud as an older fridge. I wouldn't mind working next to it if I had to. Sleeping next to it wouldn't be fun though.
I've been able to chill 14 gallons down from 70 to 33F in around 1.5 hours holding the chamber at 29F. I could hold the chamber lower but that seems like overkill when mostly this thing is just pumping coolant for 3-4 minutes every hour or so to keep the fermentation stable. As I scale up to having 1bbl size fermenters, and possibly 2-3 of them at a time, I think it will work well even if it might be chugging sometimes. Based on the specs it's right for even a 2-3BBL brewery that doesn't need to cold crash quickly.cters long. Consider whether you would recommend this product and what you like or dislike about it.
Works well. but manual is missing one important hint. Glycol is not glycol . activated glycol, this stuff with anti corrosives is needed. Both can be food grade. If you use only destilled water mixed with glycol , then you still have an autoprotolyse. Means the water is without ions and can corrode the copper tubes easily. Buy the glycol with the inhibitor..it is the same price..but buy it.
I bought this to chill my 1/2bbl Brewtech unitank and 20 gallon brite tank and it does an excellent job. Can cold crash 17 gallons down 35 degrees in about 3 hours and with two more open lines I can’t wait to get more tanks!
It does what it needs to, but it came with some issues.
As I’m typing this out I have 2 lagers fermenting at 10C and I just kegged an ipa that i cold crashed at 3C so yes it does do what I need it to do. That being said when I first got it there was a leak because 5 of the 8 disconnects inside were not tightened properly with hose clamps. It was an easy enough fix but another problem is that one of the 4 pumps doesn’t seem to work. Again this isn’t a huge deal for me because I have only 3 fermenters but still when you pay almost a grand on a piece of equipment you want it to work properly!
Awesome and affordable. Pumps inside so no external stuff. Held temp fine. Only drawback was no instructions came with it. Went to YouTube and watched videos. Still not sure capacity of water/glycol. Put 7 gallons it.
Very easy to setup, definitely get the extra hose and make short like loops to test the machine, stays very cold and very quiet. I am so far very happy with this
Real rating is 3.5. It can keep multiple tanks very cool and I live the built in sensors. It has definitely helped me up my lager game for sure. Price is fair.
Had issues with some of the senor inputs being very loose needing some glue. It will make an annoying sound unless a sensor is plugged in...even if you "turn it off" I find this annoying because I would like to store the other sensor cables away when I'm not using them. The master glycol temp controller (stc 1000) on the bottom went bad on me twice. Moorebeer was great about replacing..but annoying. The one time is nearly froze the glycol which I'm sure would have damaged the system. I won't be leaving it on while I'm deployed...thats for sure. Works as advertised. Could be made with better parts...little worried about longevity on this unit. But we will see.
I was surprised by the quality and features of this chiller. The only drawback is that it only reads temperature in Celsius. Love the temperature control I have now.
When I received it one of the temperature displays was not working. luckily I'm handy and was able to fix it without too much of a problem. Overall it works great. I wish there was a switch underneath every display to shut them off and on other than that I like the unit and it's a great price compared to other chillers
This is a great unit. It seems to be well built, it runs quietly and is easy to operate with a little practice. What drew me to it over the other models is the integrated pumps. However, unless something has changed since my purchase, the instructions that come with it are inadequate to say the least. I recommend downloading or printing the PDF manual from the More Beer website and reading it thoroughly before playing with your new toy. That being said, these instructions are lacking as well. Neither mention putting the drain plug in before filling the bath, a rather important step, and there are a few other recommendations I would make that you won’t find in the manual. First, before you fill the bath or plug it in, cut four short pieces of silicone or vinyl tubing and connect each pump outlet and inlet together. This will prevent you from blowing glycol all over the floor if one of the pumps accidentally kicks on. Second, change the set temperature set point of all four pumps to at least ten degrees above the highest ambient temp of your brewery when not in use. Again, to prevent the pumps from inadvertently coming on. The third point pertains to the glycol/water ratio. The instructions recommend a 20% glycol solution, but say nothing about the bath temperature. The 20% solution will probably be fine if you’re not going to run your bath temp. below 32 degrees. I did some online research prior to my purchase and learned that most breweries run their bath temps at 27-28 degrees f and recommend the glycol solution freeze point be 20-25 degrees lower. ie, 27f bath set point, 2f-7f glycol solution freeze point. This translates to a 33%-35% glycol ratio. The reason for this is that when the unit is under load, say during a cold crash, the compressor runs constantly and the coils drop well below 0 deg. f which causes them to become encased in ice which lowers efficiency. As a test, I did a trial run with 23 gal. of sanitizing solution. (27 gal. Blichmann fermenter in an insulated box). I started with a 25% glycol ratio with a 27f bath. I dropped the solution to 68f and held it for 24 hours, then cold crashed to 45f and held another 24 hours. After the first 24 hours there was about 1” of ice around the coils and after the 24 hour crash, that had more than doubled. So I warmed the bath to melt the ice, drained off one gallon of the 25% solution and added a gallon of glycol to raise the ratio to about 35%. The next weekend, I brewed and fermented my first batch. There was no icing during the 5 day fermentation. Immediately after the 2.25 hour drop from 68f to 45f, there was .25”-.5” of ice on the coils, but this melted within 8 hours of the temperature leveling off, and there was no further icing during the 5 day cc. The test cold crash from 68 deg. to 45 deg. took 2 hours 50 minutes and the beer took 2 hours 15 minutes, which speaks to the efficiency of the proper glycol ratio. I’ve had the Blichmann conical since they first came out, and bought a More Beer heated & cooled about 7 years ago. Don’t get me wrong, I love my More Beer conical, but it takes a long time to cool. With the addition of the cooling coils to the Blichmann, the Brewbuilt cut my cold crash time by 80%-85%, and, in the hottest summer months, I usually can’t get the More Beer below 48 deg. The glycol chiller held it at 45 deg. no problem. You will need to insulate your fermenter as well as possible or keep it in an insulated container of some sort.
If you have the ability to add coils or rods to your fermenter and you have the money, I would highly recommend this chiller, just do your homework first. Bottom line, this is the best addition to my brewery in years.
So I wanted to move away from the space of the garage fridge in my home in Arizona, so I decided on this unit for the price because it came with the pumps and probes.
I modified my two SS Brewbuckets by adding the temp twister cooling coil and using full-size keg insulating jackets to cover them. Coils are connected with quick connects with flow stoppers. I plan to do a 3rd fermenter set up.
The 4th line i use to chill water for wort chiller. Same quick connect lines into an old 3/8 in SS wort chiller into a 6-gallon insulated bucket. At the beginning of brew day, I set that up and make it as cold as I can. When it is time to chill, the water can be the mid 30s and use another pump to re-circulate the water to chill beer. The system has had the capacity to manage the heat exchange so I can minimize water waste and stay in the garage while brewing.
Is this thing an investment, yes. I think in the long run, it will be worth it in the increased capacity to have 3 fermenters going to decrease the water waste from chilling beer as the footprint is small.
Hi Estaban, thank you for leaving this awesome review! The most up to date instruction manual is provided on the product page in the document section. Cheers!
September 5, 2020
Graciela H
Rated 1 out of 5
Super Disappointed
I was really hopeful when this thing came in, despite the lack of instructions that everyone talks about. After some research it looked like I had it all figured out so I went for it. When the unit came in, the first impression I got, was that it was a used unit or just really poorly put together. All the displays and temp sensor plug-ins were loose, so I had to hot-glue them back on. After filling it up, the back drain started leaking, and one of the front ports as well. Got the back one fixed with some extra plumbers tape, but the front port is still leaking, can't fix it at all, though I feel like a brand new unit shouldn't require all of this work. Now I never get worked up about anything this much and don't mind adjusting, fixing a thing or two if it got damaged during transit but this is too much. So much for cold crashing this weekend. I'd recommend you stay away from this POS and spend your money elsewhere.
Caution however. The instructions are very abbreviated and Step 2 is to locate and fill the glycol/water reservoir. It would have been helpful to remind you to put the cap on the glycol drain tube at the back of the unit, and how to attach.
After cleaning up a gallon of glycol from my garage floor, I ordered two more gallons and now think I am ok although I am only hoping I put the plug on properly. No instructions for that.
Very limited instructions. Impossible to find more info on internet even through manufacturer’s website. It does make glycol/water mix cold and it does circulate, so I guess it works... for same cost could have bought Blichman and I kinda got buyer’s remorse.
I picked this unit because of the internal temperature controls and integrated pumps. (saves you $240-400 over other similar units) MoreBeers support was great I had a few questions about the unit and even during the Coronavirus lock down when all their people where working from home, they went out of their way to answer my question and finding the answers to my questions.
The unit is well built and looks great!
Make sure you download the online instructions as the ones in the box aren't that great.