You’ve made a few extract-based beer kits, maybe even put together a few recipes of your own. You’re using steeped caramel and roasted malts to add color and flavor to your beer, and everything’s going great. But you want to expand your repertoire, and explore some of the bins of base malts available to homebrewers. Those other bins are full of all kinds great flavors and colors of malts, but base malts need mashing, not just steeping, to get the sugar and flavor out of the kernels and into your beer. Mashing activates enzymes, which are naturally present in malt, to break down long starch molecules into short sugar molecules that yeast can eat. There’s a lot of complex chemistry that I am skipping, but the good news is that mashing is just steeping, but with some additional precision. Learning how to do a partial mash is a giant step toward all-grain brewing, but it’s actually a pretty small step in terms of extra equipment – it’s mostly a change to process.
First, be aware that you won’t be completely replacing malt extract (DME or LME) in your recipes. You’ll need to have enough on hand to make up the difference between what you get from your partial mash and the total gravity contribution needed for the recipe.
That’s it! You have successfully done a partial mash.
Now you can measure the volume and specific gravity of the liquor you’ve collected, and calculate how much water and extract you’ll need to add to make your pre-boil wort. For this example, let’s assume you collected 1.5 gallons of liquor at 1.060. We can express that amount of extract by multiplying the gravity points above 1.000 by the total volume. 1.5 times 60 (gravity points) is 90, so we have 90 points of extract in our liquor already. If we are planning to get to a total volume in the fermenter of five gallons, and our target gravity is 1.050, we’re aiming for a total of 250 points of extract, so we will want to add malt extract to make up the 160-point difference.
(50 pts x 5 gallons = 250 pts)
The extract you are using should have a listed value for points per pound – most DME is about 44 points per pound, for example. Since we need to add 160 points to our partial mash liquor, you’d divide 160 by 44 to find that you need about 3.6 pounds of DME to bring the total extract up to 250 points. The water volume is easier to figure – just add water to make your usual pre-boil volume, not forgetting to allow for evaporation and other losses – so if your usual pre-boil volume is 6 gallons, add 4.5 gallons to the liquor from your partial mash. Stir well to make sure that all of your malt extract is dissolved and well-mixed (I find it easiest to do this before turning the heat on, to avoid scorching), then follow your usual process to boil, cool, and ferment the batch. It’s also worth noting that partial mashes do not necessarily have to be done as full-volume boils. If you usually do a concentrated boil to make three gallons of wort and add two gallons of water in the fermenter, that’s still possible – that 4.5 gallons just gets split, with 2 gallons going into the fermenter and the other 2.5 gallons in the boil.
Because you were so careful to write down your grain:water ratio and the temperature of the water before and after you added the crushed grain, you have a pretty good idea of how much the temperature will drop for your next batch. If you had to add hot or cold water to get to the right temperature, you can heat the water a little more or a little less next time. Good notes every time you brew will help you with repeat-ability, so that when you hone a recipe to perfection, you’ll be able to brew it again, over and over.
If you already had one, a sous vide circulator would make setting and holding the temperature of your partial mash very easy. I don’t think I would spend the money for this purpose alone, though. A refractometer would make checking the gravity of your mash runnings much faster and easier – and it’s such a useful brewing tool in general that I actually do suggest one to all brewers who brew more than occasionally.
The process of partial mashing is exactly the same as Brew-in- a-Bag (BIAB), except for matters related to scale. Once you get this process working well, it’s fairly easy to step up a notch and make all-grain beer. Even if you decide not to make that leap anytime soon, though, partial-mash brewing should significantly open up your recipe-creation horizons. There are a lot of bins to get through at your favorite shop, after all, and that means a really large number of ways to combine all those grains into wonderful things.
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